In Cognito

Kiwis have a very disarming love of wearing costumes. Any party, any event, any occasion is reason enough to dig into the back of the closet, head to the recycle center for something second hand and a bit odd, or go all out and hire something exceptional. This reflex is not in any way limited to the young party crowd – older (for Wanaka, that means older than 25), completely respectable, professional people will grab hold of a costume theme with the same if not more enthusiasm as the cool kids. It really is amazing.

Sunday, October 5th was the last day of the season at Treble Cone, and it brought out everyone in the finest. The retro ski gear that showed up (clothing and ski equipment both) brought back many memories and, in some cases, made all of us cringe. The sheer numbers of people in tropical prints, funny hats, odd ensembles, gorilla suits and the like was incredibly funny. This included the staff, the managers, the medical personnel, everyone. If you had arrived from Vermont without being prepped for it, you might have thought someone spiked the morning coffee. It was an incredibly funny and exceptionally fun display, and a great way to finish the season.

At the end of my second winter season here, I’ve concluded that this costume phenomenon is the result of the combination of two related factors. First, New Zealand is very far from everyone and everything else on earth except Australia (which Kiwis probably wish was further away anyway) and Antarctica. Anyone not able to get enthusiastic about the next themed party is destined to end up grumpy and alone that evening, not a happy state of affairs when marooned out here in the middle of the Pacific. Think about the funny madcap evenings spent on Gilligan’s Island and you get the idea.

This remoteness results directly in the second factor, the determined and refreshing lack of pretension in all aspects of life here. Nobody is above getting all gussied up in costume. It also means there is a certain lack of apprehension about getting drunk in public, but that’s another story. Regardless, if coming to New Zealand, definitely leave your stiff upper lip at home. It’s as though, having left behind the social rigidity of Great Britain, those first immigrants to the South Island, many of whom were from Scotland, saw the perfect grazing land, the salmon and trout-filled rivers, and the massive peaks, breathed a deep sigh of relief, and decided to let fly their inner comedy. It’s contagious, I must say, though it creeps in slowly. I’m not expecting “fancy dress” parties at Okemo this coming winter, but I haven’t minded dipping a toe in the costumed waters while here in Wanaka. At a minimum, the costume phenomenon and all the energy that goes with it shows the spirit and enthusiasm of all those Kiwis and those who travel here to dedicate themselves to the pursuit of a life in the mountains.